Faux Real: Wood Graining

Faux Real: Wood Graining

StageSpot might not come directly to mind when you think of scenic supplies, after all Home Depot and Lowe's might be closer to you. However, with the right paint you can get the most consistent quality finish for your scenic painting. It's difficult to get the same color of paint from big box stores. We've even tried at our local Ace a few times; it all depends on who is mixing the paint that day. StageSpot can make it easy to get the right scenic paint for the job. We've asked a scenic artist to give us examples of how to use the paint we offer.  She gave us this handy guide to creating a rich faux wood grain. It's hard to tell from the audience it's just a bunch of plywood up on stage. These techniques have been known to work in the smallest of black box theatres as well as larger venues.

If you haven't done any similar painting to this before, it's a good idea to do a test patch on the back of the set or a scrap piece of wood.

To begin creating a rich faux wood grain, start with a strong rich base color such as Rosco Off Broadway in a shade such as red, orange, or yellow depending on the final tone you desire. The darker colors are better for the darker wood tones such as mahogany and cherry. The lighter colors do well for oak and birch.  If you need your final project to be flame retardant, don't forget to mix in the Flamex Paint Additive. This base coat technique is used to create richness to the final product. It may not be necessary in all cases. It all depends on the final design specifications.

Next, it's time to apply a tan coat on top of your prime base. This will become part of the wood grain. After this dries, either take a wood graining brush or a stiff wide bristle paint brush to do a dry brush technique to create the actual wood grain. You're looking for a somewhat "combed" look. It's easiest to create this by dipping the dry brush tips directly into your darker paint tones, no dilution necessary. Drag the brush lightly across the area in the direction you would like the wood grain to be. It's important to vary your technique a bit with each stroke so you can duplicate the individuality of wood grain found in nature.

Depending on the type of wood you are going for, and how visible the set area being painted is, this may be the final step for you. If you need the wood to shine, or are painting parts of the set that are especially visible, there a few more steps needed to make the faux wood appear more realistic.

Using a SuperSaturated color, such as red, orange, or yellow, mix one part paint to four parts water or four parts glaze. The scenic painter we asked preferred this paint to others, as when mixed, the saturation and richness of the color doesn't fade. Blend this mix into the area that has been faux wood grained. If the area has also been marked out to replicate planks or boards, try to make each one a little different.

Once that has dried to your liking, finish it off using a glaze made with SuperSaturated burnt umber or burnt sienna. This final glaze will bring out richness in the finished wood. Loading some areas heavier with color and leaving others lighter will also add to the realism and depth of the finish.

While this painting guide focuses on a natural wood finish, using other colors can mimic old barns, pickled finishes of old fences, and even some of the lightest wood finishes out in the world.

Painting depends almost entirely on the individual doing it. These steps are merely guidelines to give an idea on where to start for faux wood finishing. Mold this technique into something that works for you and your design. Painting is fun so play with it, and if you mess up you can always paint over and begin again. If you need anything, StageSpot is here to help.

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